Once the seat of the mighty Nguyen Dynasty, Hue (pronounced Hway) was the nation’s capital during the 19th century. Despite seeing some of the worst fighting during war battles, it’s imperial charm has never faded, and the town is now becoming regenerated once again due to increased tourism.
- Destination Highlights
- Transportation
- Accommodation
- Dining
- Shopping
1. Destination Highlights
DMZ
Hue’s proximity to the meeting point between northern and southern Vietnam during the fighting of the 20th century means that day tours to the DMZ are easily available.
The shadow of the war still looms large on the country, and the detailed tour of the countries ironically named ‘De-Militarized Zone’ give an insight into the fighting that Westerners rarely hear. Full tours can be given in major languages and cost around 200,000 VND (~9 USD).
Citadel
Partially reconstructed after the war, Hue’s citadel is the number one must-see attraction in all of Hue. The entry fee if 120,000 VND grants you access to the sprawling Imperial grounds, which, with their faded pastel shades and staggeringly ornate decoration are one of the most photogenic parts of the entire country.
Luckily, over the past 20 years, the government has made more of an effort to restore it and anticipates tourism to the site.
Tombs
Due to both its Imperial past, and devastating hand during both the French occupation and American War, Hue is surrounded by tombs.
Graveyards line the city parameters, acting as a stark reminder of the city’s past. Some of these tombs, however, act instead as monuments to ego, much like Graceland and Neverland, as the high and mighty from by-gone eras paid above the odds to have their legacies remembered.
2. Transportation
A quiet city, Hue is best travelled by walking or taking a bicycle ride. If you need to cover larger distance, either waive down a yellow/ green taxi or call a Grab (a popular app in Vietnam and similar to Uber in use).
3. Accommodation
Backpackers should head to the Perfume Rivers’ south bank, where most backpackers head on arrival for cheap bars and accommodation.
Alternatively, a cluster of good hotels are nestled around Nguyen Cong Tru, near the Dap Da Bridge, which is more up-and-coming than the increasingly run-down backpacker district.
Those looking for high-end accommodation should head to Le Loi, where most of the luxury hotels are located, offering nice river views.
4. Dining
As with any city comprised of such interesting contrasts, the cuisine of Hue is outstanding. Bold flavors and sophisticated cooking techniques have rendered Hue one of the premier culinary destinations in Southeast Asia – and that’s saying something.
Nem Lui
Nem Lui are little sausages molded around sticks of fresh lemongrass, made from minced pork, pork skin and fat. They are then grilled over charcoal until the outside is caramelized nicely, and the entire street is perfumed with the smell.
They reserved with rice paper, lettuce, pickles, cold, thin rice noodles and the ubiquitous pile of fresh herbs, and then the entire mixture is rolled into one fat package, and greedily dunked into a peanut and fermented shrimp sauce.
Expect disaster the first-time round, but like everything worth its while, practice makes perfect(ish).
Bun Bo Hue
Literally translating as ‘Hue beef noodles’, the streets of Hue (and, indeed, the rest of Vietnam) are heaving with vendors peddling this famous dish.
Whilst every stalls’ dish varies to some degree, the basic components are the same - a savory, viscous meat broth made up of by annatto seeds, ginger, lemongrass, sugar and chilis.
The noodles that come with Bun Bo Hue are the largest of its kind in Vietnam, round and with bland taste. Second only to Vietnam’s most famous dish, Pho; Bun Bo Hue is slowly making the rounds across the shores of the Western world.
The dish is now a popular choice for lunch in many Vietnamese cities as well.
Com Hen
Com Hen, or ‘clam rice’, is a ubiquitous Hue dish whose name doesn’t do it justice. A vibrant smattering of colors and textures; com hen is usually eaten at lunch time and makes for a nice change from the royally looked cuisine of Hue.
The dish comprised of cooked rice or rice noodles, topped with baby clams and fried onions.
Bean sprouts and fried onions are sprinkled all over the plate and some will enjoy this dish with a hot clam broth as well.
5. Shopping
Hue boasts myriad art galleries, souvenir shops, and tailors, as well as local markets geared to locals.
Quality varies, however local handicrafts such as lacquerware, silk paintings and home décor are popular gifts that can be found easily.
Dong Ba Market the oldest of its kind in Hue. Hundreds of stalls selling anything from household items to fresh produce jostle for attention in its huge site long the Perfume River.
The market opens as early as 3am for locals looking to buy produce for breakfast, but head down at around 7am to avoid the rush.
Healing the Wounded Heart is a lovely little shop selling handcrafted items from recycled items.
This profit-free shop offers fair wages, medical insurance, housing, daily sponsored meal, and recreational allowance to a number of disabled artisans in Hue.